Knitwear

All about flannel A guide to men's wardrobe fabrics Inside Noé Lédée’s Suitcase Semi-traditional manufacturing

Knitwear

Everything you need to know about knitwear to better choose the essential pieces for your wardrobe.

Fabrics

Knitwear - Mens suits and clothes De Fursac

Wool

An animal-based fiber, wool comes from the fleece of sheep. The key quality criterion is the fineness of the fibers, expressed in microns (which corresponds to the diameter of the fiber). This can range from 10 to 50 microns depending on its origin.

In addition to its soft feel, wool is wrinkle-resistant, offers excellent insulation, and quickly absorbs and releases moisture.

Highly elastic, it is considered one of the most stretchable natural fibers. Its surface is covered with scales, which are responsible for felting and pilling when subjected to friction.

Merino wool and mohair

Merino wool is a very fine wool with a diameter between 10 and 20 microns. It comes from the Merino sheep, which is mainly raised in Australia, but also in New Zealand, Argentina, South Africa, Uruguay, and the western United States. Its small diameter makes it a soft and silky material. There are several categories of Merino wool: ultrafine, superfine, fine, medium fine, medium, and coarse. It is also insulating and helps regulate body temperature while absorbing moisture. It doesn’t retain odors and has antibacterial properties.

Mohair, whether knitted or woven, is a rather dry fiber to the touch. At Fursac, we favor blends of Merino wool and mohair to make the fabric softer and more supple. Mohair fibers are thicker than Merino wool fibers, which makes them more durable and wrinkle-resistant.

Cashmere and alpaca

Cashmere is an animal-based fiber, sourced from the hair of the Angora goat from China and Tibet. Its diameter ranges from 7 to 19 microns depending on its quality, making it a fine and very soft material. It retains heat well and is extremely comfortable. It also absorbs and releases moisture very quickly. However, it is quite delicate and tends to pill easily.

Alpaca is also an animal-based fiber, obtained from the hair of a species closely related to the llama. Its appearance lends itself to creating bold, stylish pieces.

Cotton and mercerized cotton

Cotton is a plant-based fiber that surrounds the seed of the cotton plant’s fruit. The quality of the fiber depends mainly on its length (the longer the fibers, the finer they are, and the better the characteristics of the resulting yarn). Cotton has a soft and pleasant feel, is lightweight and durable, and easy to care for. It is breathable, making it suitable to wear all year round. It also absorbs and releases moisture very quickly. However, it tends to wrinkle easily.

Mercerization is a treatment applied to cotton, where the yarn is soaked under tension in caustic soda. This process causes the fiber to swell, its cross-section becomes round, and the outer layer breaks. The result is a shinier appearance and a stronger fiber.

Nylon (or polyamide) and polyester

Nylon is a synthetic fiber chemically produced from petroleum derivatives. It has the advantage of being durable, easy to care for, and wrinkle-resistant. Its ability to retain heat is low. It has good elasticity and feels relatively soft.

Polyester is a synthetic fiber resulting from the condensation of two petroleum-based components. It is highly resistant and durable, with excellent elasticity. It is wrinkle-free, but like nylon, its ability to retain heat is low.

Types of knit

Knitting involves forming a series of yarn loops called stitches to create a fabric known as knitwear. There are many variations of knitting, from which the basic principles of knitting are derived.

1. Interlock : This knit is made of two rows of stitches, one behind the other, giving the impression of a double thickness. It is in fact two 1x1 ribs interlocked together: the back and front sides are therefore identical.

2. Jersey : This is the basic knit, produced on a machine with a single needle bed. On the right side of jersey knit, the stitches form V-shapes interlocked with one another. On the wrong side, the stitches look like overlapping bridges. It is named after the island of Jersey, where it has been produced since the 16th century. It is made by knitting one row of knit stitches, then one row of purl stitches.

3. Milano : This is an interlock-based knit with two rows of stitches, one behind the other, giving it a double-layered effect; hence its name "double face". One row is jersey, alternated with a row of 1x1 rib. This knit offers good elasticity and excellent stability.

4. Ribs : Rib knit (called "ribs" in English) is a double-faced jersey with distinct vertical columns on both sides. It can be made of a variable number of knit and purl stitches. For example, a 1x1 rib consists of one knit stitch and one purl stitch, a 2x2 rib consists of two knit stitches and two purl stitches, and so on.

5. Cables : Cables are made by crossing stitches or groups of stitches over other stitches or groups of stitches, creating interwoven effects.

6. Seed stitch : Seed stitch consists of knitting one stitch, then purling the next, alternating consistently. Visually, seed stitch creates small bumps that look the same on both sides.

7. Basketweave stitch : Basketweave stitch is named after the pattern that resembles a wicker basket, giving it a woven appearance.

8. English ribs (cardigan ribs) : This is a knit where the front and back show spaced-out ribbing. It is formed with two rows of stitches: when one row knits 1x1 ribs, the other does not, and vice versa.

9. Garter stitch : It has the appearance of the wrong side of jersey stitch: small overlapping bridges. It is made by knitting only knit stitches.

10. Half cardigan ribs : This is a modified form of English ribs, where the front looks like small pearls and the back resembles English ribs.

11. Honeycomb stitch : This knit has a textured appearance with cells that resemble the structure of a honeycomb.

12. Cotton piqué : The knit appears "piqued" on the front side with small, regularly spaced raised details. This stitch can be used, for example, to break the monotony of a jersey sweater. It is commonly seen on polo shirts.

13. Jacquard : Jacquard knitting is a technique used to create colored patterns. Different colored yarns are used, which are sometimes knitted and sometimes carried along the back of the fabric as floating yarns. The needles that form the fabric face are selected to knit or to skip. Each row works with only one color at a time. Rib jacquard (also called double jacquard) solves the issue of floating yarns. Since there are two rows of knitted yarns, the yarns not meant to appear on the front are knitted on the back.

14. Fair Isle : Fair Isle is a jacquard knitting pattern using many colors, knitted in horizontal bands. The juxtaposition of bands with different patterns creates the uniqueness of each sweater. It originated in the early 19th century on the island of Fair Isle, in the Shetland archipelago, north of Scotland. Fair Isle sweaters were originally hand-knitted with wool from Shetland sheep. Each family of farmers or sailors traditionally knitted sweaters with their own arrangement of bands. Fair Isle gained widespread popularity when the Prince of Wales, Edward VIII, wore it publicly in 1921. Quickly, Fair Isle sweaters became iconic in English fashion and spread beyond the Channel.

15. Argyle : The argyle pattern is believed to have originated in Scotland, specifically in the county of Argyll, where the Campbell clan wore this design on their tartans. It is made with overlapping diamonds in various colors, crossed with diagonal lines. It was popularized in the 20th century by the Scottish brand Pringle of Scotland. In the early 1920s, it was adopted by golfers, especially Edward VIII, the Duke of Windsor. Today, it remains a popular and timeless pattern for sweaters.

16. Intarsia : Derived from the Italian word intarsio, meaning "inlay", this is another technique for creating knitted patterns. Unlike jacquard, intarsia does not leave inactive yarns at the back but switches yarns at each color change in the pattern. This results in a lighter knit, with the same pattern on both the front and back. It is often used for creating large motifs.

17. Jersey "French terry" : Part of the terry fabric family, it typically has a looped texture on one side and a smooth texture on the other. Absorbent, soft, and comfortable to the touch, it is ideal for sportswear.

18. Jersey fleece : This knit typically has a fleece texture on the reverse side and a smooth finish on the front. Warmer than French terry but less absorbent, fleece jersey is soft and comfortable, making it ideal for sportswear. Technically, three yarns are used to form a single row of stitches. The reverse side contains yarns in long loops which, once brushed, create a fluffy appearance.

19. Flatlock : The flatlock seam, also called flat seam, is a decorative seam that allows jersey knits to be joined edge to edge. It uses three threads, making the assembly more durable.

Interlock stitch

Milano stitch (right side)

Milano stitch (wrong side)

1x1 rib

2x2 rib

Braided rib

Basketweave stitch

Garter stitch

Intarsia stitch (right side)

Intarsia stitch (wrong side)

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View #54 - modules.toaster	543.88ms	+ 0.53ms
View #55 - layout.overlay	543.98ms	+ 0.11ms
View #56 - modules.webstore-switcher	545.31ms	+ 1.32ms
View #57 - components.close-button	545.56ms	+ 0.26ms
View #58 - components.native-select	545.85ms	+ 0.28ms
View #59 - components.native-select	546.16ms	+ 0.31ms
View #60 - components.button	546.33ms	+ 0.17ms
View #61 - components.button	546.53ms	+ 0.20ms
View #62 - helpers.grid	546.78ms	+ 0.25ms
View #63 - modules.loading-bar	546.94ms	+ 0.16ms
View #64 - 3rdparties.didomi	547.15ms	+ 0.21ms
View #65 - 3rdparties.gtm	547.25ms	+ 0.11ms
View #66 - 3rdparties.abtasty.main	547.38ms	+ 0.13ms
View #67 - 3rdparties.abtasty.tracking	547.48ms	+ 0.10ms
View #68 - 3rdparties.blueshift	547.64ms	+ 0.16ms
View #69 - 3rdparties.sizebay.main	548.01ms	+ 0.37ms
View #70 - 3rdparties.sizebay.tracking	548.16ms	+ 0.15ms
View #71 - 3rdparties.gsi	548.32ms	+ 0.16ms
View #72 - 3rdparties.applepay	548.40ms	+ 0.08ms
View #73 - 3rdparties.alma	548.63ms	+ 0.22ms
View #74 - path: /var/www/html/laravel/profiling/template.blade.php	553.18ms	+ 4.55ms

Name

Running Time (ms)

Difference

default_timer

553.13ms (time from start to render)

Controller entry

0.00ms

+ 0.00ms

View #1 - editorial.article

37.49ms

+ 37.49ms

View #2 - editorial.partials.subnav

38.54ms

+ 1.04ms

View #3 - editorial.partials.block-text

39.61ms

+ 1.08ms

View #4 - editorial.partials.block-text

39.80ms

+ 0.19ms

View #5 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

39.94ms

+ 0.14ms

View #6 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

40.87ms

+ 0.93ms

View #7 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

41.16ms

+ 0.29ms

View #8 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

41.55ms

+ 0.40ms

View #9 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

41.99ms

+ 0.44ms

View #10 - editorial.partials.block-text

42.32ms

+ 0.32ms

View #11 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

42.45ms

+ 0.14ms

View #12 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

42.79ms

+ 0.33ms

View #13 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

43.25ms

+ 0.46ms

View #14 - editorial.partials.block-gallery

43.81ms

+ 0.57ms

View #15 - editorial.partials.image-zoom

44.05ms

+ 0.24ms

View #16 - components.close-button

44.28ms

+ 0.23ms

View #17 - editorial.partials.related-content

54.40ms

+ 10.11ms

View #18 - components.button

55.19ms

+ 0.79ms

View #19 - components.button

55.78ms

+ 0.59ms

View #20 - components.button

56.21ms

+ 0.43ms

View #21 - components.button

56.72ms

+ 0.51ms

View #22 - components.button

57.34ms

+ 0.63ms

View #23 - components.button

57.83ms

+ 0.49ms

View #24 - components.button

58.40ms

+ 0.57ms

View #25 - components.button

59.19ms

+ 0.79ms

View #26 - layout.layout

59.44ms

+ 0.25ms

View #27 - layout.meta

60.41ms

+ 0.96ms

View #28 - modules.notification

62.29ms

+ 1.88ms

View #29 - modules.header

62.96ms

+ 0.67ms

View #30 - modules.menu

512.95ms

+ 450.00ms

View #31 - components.menu-first-level

513.39ms

+ 0.44ms

View #32 - components.menu-second-level

515.91ms

+ 2.52ms

View #33 - components.menu-pushes

521.21ms

+ 5.30ms

View #34 - components.menu-pushes

526.18ms

+ 4.96ms

View #35 - components.menu-pushes

529.78ms

+ 3.61ms

View #36 - components.menu-pushes

534.01ms

+ 4.23ms

View #37 - components.menu-pushes

535.03ms

+ 1.02ms

View #38 - components.menu-pushes

536.03ms

+ 1.00ms

View #39 - svg.logo

536.58ms

+ 0.55ms

View #40 - modules.messages

537.33ms

+ 0.76ms

View #41 - modules.breadcrumbs

537.63ms

+ 0.29ms

View #42 - modules.footer

537.87ms

+ 0.24ms

View #43 - components.reinsurance-support

538.20ms

+ 0.34ms

View #44 - components.field

539.41ms

+ 1.21ms

View #45 - components.csrf-field

539.64ms

+ 0.23ms

View #46 - components.button

539.77ms

+ 0.12ms

View #47 - components.footer-links

539.96ms

+ 0.19ms

View #48 - modules.panel

541.87ms

+ 1.91ms

View #49 - modules.popin

542.01ms

+ 0.14ms

View #50 - modules.blueshift-popin

542.13ms

+ 0.12ms

View #51 - modules.search-panel

542.71ms

+ 0.58ms

View #52 - catalog.search-form

542.98ms

+ 0.27ms

View #53 - components.field

543.35ms

+ 0.37ms

View #54 - modules.toaster

543.88ms

+ 0.53ms

View #55 - layout.overlay

543.98ms

+ 0.11ms

View #56 - modules.webstore-switcher

545.31ms

+ 1.32ms

View #57 - components.close-button

545.56ms

+ 0.26ms

View #58 - components.native-select

545.85ms

+ 0.28ms

View #59 - components.native-select

546.16ms

+ 0.31ms

View #60 - components.button

546.33ms

+ 0.17ms

View #61 - components.button

546.53ms

+ 0.20ms

View #62 - helpers.grid

546.78ms

+ 0.25ms

View #63 - modules.loading-bar

546.94ms

+ 0.16ms

View #64 - 3rdparties.didomi

547.15ms

+ 0.21ms

View #65 - 3rdparties.gtm

547.25ms

+ 0.11ms

View #66 - 3rdparties.abtasty.main

547.38ms

+ 0.13ms

View #67 - 3rdparties.abtasty.tracking

547.48ms

+ 0.10ms

View #68 - 3rdparties.blueshift

547.64ms

+ 0.16ms

View #69 - 3rdparties.sizebay.main

548.01ms

+ 0.37ms

View #70 - 3rdparties.sizebay.tracking

548.16ms

+ 0.15ms

View #71 - 3rdparties.gsi

548.32ms

+ 0.16ms

View #72 - 3rdparties.applepay

548.40ms

+ 0.08ms

View #73 - 3rdparties.alma

548.63ms

+ 0.22ms

View #74 - path: /var/www/html/laravel/profiling/template.blade.php

553.18ms

+ 4.55ms

Knitwear

Knitwear

Fabrics

Wool

Merino wool and mohair

Cashmere and alpaca

Cotton and mercerized cotton

Nylon (or polyamide) and polyester

Types of knit

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