La chemise parfaite

Choisir son style Quelques règles de base Choisir les pièces clefs de son vestiaire Créer des palettes harmonieuses Dans la valise de Marc Beaugé Tout sur les tissus du vestiaire masculin

La chemise parfaite

Les différents fits de chemise permettent de jouer entre les styles, mais aussi de trouver la bonne pièce par rapport à sa morphologie.

Les trois fits principaux chez Fursac sont :

La chemise de ville ou de cérémonie : la base de corps y est cintrée avec une taille bien dessinée. Elle se porte rentrée dans le pantalon. Différents cols sont possibles : français, gorge cachée, à plastron…

La chemise de ville casual : la base de corps y est légèrement relâchée avec un cintrage qui reste marqué. Elle se porte rentrée dans le pantalon ou à l’extérieur. Les matières proposées sont plus casual.

La chemise casual : la base de corps y est droite et la taille moins marquée. Elle est proposée en bas liquette ou bas droit avec fentes cotés. Elle se porte rentrée dans le pantalon ou à l’extérieur.

Les chemises de cérémonie

Les chemises business

Les chemises casual

Les cols

Col français

Col requin

Col grand-père

Col cassé

Col hirondelle

Col américain

Les gorges

Gorge simple
Patte à même avec boutonnières, boutons visibles

Gorge américaine
La plus casual, patte rapportée et surpiquée

Gorge cachée
Boutons invisibles

Les poignets

La chemise parfaite - Costume homme et vêtements Fursac

Le bas de manche : la couture anglaise

La couture anglaise ferme les flans et les manches d’une chemise sans surfilage apparent par rapport à un montage classique à double aiguilles.

Réalisée avec une machine aiguille simple, elle nécessite de réaliser la couture en 2 fois.
C’est une finition plus luxueuse qui nécessite un savoir-faire plus poussé.

Les matières et teintures

Le twill

Le twill est le nom anglais de l’armure de sergé. On le distingue visiblement grâce aux diagonales formées par le tissage.

Ces diagonales sont obtenues par le passage du fil de chaine en alternance au-dessous d’un fil de trame, puis au-dessus de deux fils de trame. Peu froissable, une chemise en twill est résistante et facile à repasser. Elle est aussi plus souple et souvent moins craquante qu’une popeline.

La popeline et le fil à fil

La popeline est une toile qui présente une côte fine et serrée, elle est absorbante, souple et légèrement soyeuse. Pour l’obtention de la popeline, les tisseurs utilisent un fil de chaîne plus fin qu’un fil de trame.

Le fil à fil est une forme de popeline qui se distingue par l’utilisation d’un fil de couleur différente pour la chaîne et pour la trame. Ce tissage est utilisé pour la fabrication d’étoffes unies. Il donne aux tissus cet effet chiné bien spécifique.

Teint en pièces

On dit d’un vêtement qu’il est « teint en pièce » lorsque la teinture intervient après le montage. Ainsi, on obtient un rendu couleur plus doux et plus « casual » notamment au niveau des coutures.

Cela permet de travailler des couleurs très vives en évitant toutefois l’aspect criard.

Les coupes

Chemise col américain (ou col polo)

Bien que les origines de la chemise col polo soient légèrement floues, les historiens s’accordent tout de même à la rattacher à une date….et à un sport. Remontons au XIXème siècle dans l’état du Manipur au Nord-Est de l’Inde, où sont stationnés les soldats de l’armée britannique. Pour se divertir pendant leurs pauses, ils jouent au polo. A l’époque, ils portent une épaisse chemise à manches longues en coton. Gênés par le col qui ne cesse de battre lorsqu’ils sont au galop, ils décident de l’attacher à la chemise par des boutons.

Cette chemise à col boutonné, rattachée à la pratique du polo depuis, est nommée par les anglo-saxons « polo-shirt ». Lors d’un voyage en Angleterre, John E. Brooks, petit-fils du fondateur de la marque américaine Brooks Brothers assiste à un match de polo. Il décide à son retour de s’inspirer du col boutonné des chemises des joueurs et de proposer ce type de col au grand public.

Si on associe donc la chemise à col boutonné comme purement issue du style américain, c’est à Brooks Brothers qu’on le doit, puisque c’est la première marque à avoir popularisé le produit auprès du grand public comme un vêtement de tous les jours.

Chemise Hawaïenne ou chemise aloha

La chemise hawaïenne, ou chemise Aloha, est une chemise à manches courtes et col évasé, originaire des îles Hawaï. Elle connait son heure de gloire après guerre puis dans les années 1980.

Bien qu’incertaines, les origines de la chemise hawaïenne remonteraient à la fin du XIXème siècle lorsque des migrants japonais arrivent à Hawaï pour servir de main d’œuvre dans les champs de canne à sucre apportant avec eux le tissu traditionnel tapa. Ces travailleurs, torses nu dans les champs, se voient imposer par les missionnaires chrétiens, le port d’une chemise en coton avec des boutons de nacre ou cocotier, une « palaka », à laquelle sont ajoutées des fleurs locales ainsi que des décorations habituellement présentes sur les kimonos.

Chemise Western

La chemise western est apparue au début du XIXème siècle, époque de la conquête de l’Ouest. Les avant-postes qui accueillaient les colons étaient alors cosmopolites, un mélange culturel propice à la création des premières western shirts, fruits d’un mixage culturel. Inspirées des chemises traditionnelles mexicaines portées par les vaqueros (en soie ou en coton très léger) et des chemises de combat portées par les soldats confédérés durant la guerre de sécession, les colons américains, futurs cowboys, adaptent vite ces chemises à leur mode de vie.

Pour répondre à un besoin de vêtements durables et confortables, les western shirts sont ainsi fabriquées dans un denim épais, le même que celui utilisé pour la fabrication des jeans. Elles s’adaptent également à l’équitation : les boutons classiques sont remplacés par des boutons à pression afin d’éviter qu’ils ne s’arrachent en cas de chute de cheval ; les empiècements des épaules permettent un meilleur maintien du vêtement, elles sont aussi plus longues afin qu’elles ne sortent pas du pantalon à cheval.

D’un vêtement d’apparat riche en décorations, la chemise western devient un véritable vêtement de travail, robuste, sobre et bon marché. Les premières western shirts restent toutefois brodées de motifs d’inspiration mexicaine et amérindienne. Les poches, les empiècements des épaules et les manches sont passe-poilés, le plus souvent avec un tissu d’une autre teinte apportant un contraste. Les boutonnières comptaient jusqu’à 6 boutons alignés.

Et pour être précis…

Les baleines : A l’origine, les baleines étaient des lamelles cornées provenant des fanons de baleines. Employées autrefois pour rigidifier certains vêtements notamment les corsets, on les retrouve aujourd’hui dans le col des chemises. Attention d’ailleurs à bien les retirer avant le lavage !

L’hirondelle : Un nom poétique pour cette petite pièce de tissu de forme triangulaire, aussi appelée mouche ou cavalier qui renforce l’assemblage de la couture de chaque côté des bas de chemises et apporte une touche de fantaisie à la finition.

La patte capucin : La patte capucin (ou patte de boutonnage) est située sur le bas de manche, près du poignet. Elle ajoute une touche élégante et fonctionnelle aux chemises. Surtout, elle permet de renforcer l’ouverture de la manche pour une finition de qualité.

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View #50 - components.footer-links	1,101.25ms	+ 0.36ms
View #51 - modules.panel	1,103.71ms	+ 2.46ms
View #52 - modules.popin	1,103.89ms	+ 0.17ms
View #53 - modules.blueshift-popin	1,104.06ms	+ 0.18ms
View #54 - modules.search-panel	1,105.00ms	+ 0.94ms
View #55 - catalog.search-form	1,105.33ms	+ 0.32ms
View #56 - components.field	1,105.74ms	+ 0.41ms
View #57 - modules.toaster	1,106.55ms	+ 0.81ms
View #58 - layout.overlay	1,106.70ms	+ 0.15ms
View #59 - modules.webstore-switcher	1,108.87ms	+ 2.18ms
View #60 - components.close-button	1,109.23ms	+ 0.35ms
View #61 - components.native-select	1,109.85ms	+ 0.63ms
View #62 - components.native-select	1,110.48ms	+ 0.63ms
View #63 - components.button	1,110.85ms	+ 0.37ms
View #64 - components.button	1,111.17ms	+ 0.32ms
View #65 - helpers.grid	1,111.58ms	+ 0.41ms
View #66 - modules.loading-bar	1,111.80ms	+ 0.21ms
View #67 - 3rdparties.didomi	1,112.10ms	+ 0.31ms
View #68 - 3rdparties.gtm	1,112.25ms	+ 0.15ms
View #69 - 3rdparties.abtasty.main	1,112.39ms	+ 0.14ms
View #70 - 3rdparties.abtasty.tracking	1,112.53ms	+ 0.14ms
View #71 - 3rdparties.blueshift	1,112.77ms	+ 0.24ms
View #72 - 3rdparties.sizebay.main	1,113.17ms	+ 0.40ms
View #73 - 3rdparties.sizebay.tracking	1,113.37ms	+ 0.20ms
View #74 - 3rdparties.gsi	1,113.59ms	+ 0.22ms
View #75 - 3rdparties.applepay	1,113.71ms	+ 0.12ms
View #76 - 3rdparties.alma	1,113.94ms	+ 0.24ms
View #77 - path: /var/www/html/laravel/profiling/template.blade.php	1,115.11ms	+ 1.17ms

Name

Running Time (ms)

Difference

default_timer

1,115.07ms (time from start to render)

Controller entry

0.00ms

+ 0.00ms

View #1 - editorial.article

91.22ms

+ 91.22ms

View #2 - editorial.partials.subnav

92.45ms

+ 1.23ms

View #3 - editorial.partials.block-text

93.81ms

+ 1.36ms

View #4 - editorial.partials.block-carousel

94.06ms

+ 0.26ms

View #5 - editorial.partials.block-text

95.42ms

+ 1.35ms

View #6 - editorial.partials.block-carousel

95.65ms

+ 0.23ms

View #7 - editorial.partials.block-text

96.49ms

+ 0.84ms

View #8 - editorial.partials.block-carousel

96.68ms

+ 0.19ms

View #9 - editorial.partials.block-text

97.20ms

+ 0.51ms

View #10 - editorial.partials.block-image

97.39ms

+ 0.19ms

View #11 - editorial.partials.block-text

97.78ms

+ 0.39ms

View #12 - editorial.partials.block-text

97.95ms

+ 0.17ms

View #13 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

98.14ms

+ 0.19ms

View #14 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

98.61ms

+ 0.47ms

View #15 - editorial.partials.block-text

98.98ms

+ 0.37ms

View #16 - editorial.partials.block-text

99.14ms

+ 0.16ms

View #17 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

99.34ms

+ 0.19ms

View #18 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

108.01ms

+ 8.68ms

View #19 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

108.53ms

+ 0.51ms

View #20 - editorial.partials.block-text

108.91ms

+ 0.38ms

View #21 - editorial.partials.related-content

129.36ms

+ 20.45ms

View #22 - components.button

130.27ms

+ 0.91ms

View #23 - components.button

131.13ms

+ 0.86ms

View #24 - components.button

131.83ms

+ 0.71ms

View #25 - components.button

132.56ms

+ 0.72ms

View #26 - components.button

133.19ms

+ 0.63ms

View #27 - components.button

133.77ms

+ 0.58ms

View #28 - components.button

134.41ms

+ 0.64ms

View #29 - components.button

135.09ms

+ 0.67ms

View #30 - layout.layout

135.40ms

+ 0.31ms

View #31 - layout.meta

141.82ms

+ 6.43ms

View #32 - modules.notification

144.58ms

+ 2.76ms

View #33 - modules.header

145.37ms

+ 0.79ms

View #34 - modules.menu

1,071.00ms

+ 925.63ms

View #35 - components.menu-first-level

1,071.64ms

+ 0.63ms

View #36 - components.menu-second-level

1,074.44ms

+ 2.80ms

View #37 - components.menu-pushes

1,079.25ms

+ 4.81ms

View #38 - components.menu-pushes

1,086.17ms

+ 6.92ms

View #39 - components.menu-pushes

1,092.66ms

+ 6.49ms

View #40 - components.menu-pushes

1,094.05ms

+ 1.39ms

View #41 - components.menu-pushes

1,095.29ms

+ 1.24ms

View #42 - svg.logo

1,096.20ms

+ 0.90ms

View #43 - modules.messages

1,097.42ms

+ 1.22ms

View #44 - modules.breadcrumbs

1,097.82ms

+ 0.40ms

View #45 - modules.footer

1,098.08ms

+ 0.27ms

View #46 - components.reinsurance-support

1,098.46ms

+ 0.38ms

View #47 - components.field

1,100.24ms

+ 1.78ms

View #48 - components.csrf-field

1,100.70ms

+ 0.46ms

View #49 - components.button

1,100.89ms

+ 0.19ms

View #50 - components.footer-links

1,101.25ms

+ 0.36ms

View #51 - modules.panel

1,103.71ms

+ 2.46ms

View #52 - modules.popin

1,103.89ms

+ 0.17ms

View #53 - modules.blueshift-popin

1,104.06ms

+ 0.18ms

View #54 - modules.search-panel

1,105.00ms

+ 0.94ms

View #55 - catalog.search-form

1,105.33ms

+ 0.32ms

View #56 - components.field

1,105.74ms

+ 0.41ms

View #57 - modules.toaster

1,106.55ms

+ 0.81ms

View #58 - layout.overlay

1,106.70ms

+ 0.15ms

View #59 - modules.webstore-switcher

1,108.87ms

+ 2.18ms

View #60 - components.close-button

1,109.23ms

+ 0.35ms

View #61 - components.native-select

1,109.85ms

+ 0.63ms

View #62 - components.native-select

1,110.48ms

+ 0.63ms

View #63 - components.button

1,110.85ms

+ 0.37ms

View #64 - components.button

1,111.17ms

+ 0.32ms

View #65 - helpers.grid

1,111.58ms

+ 0.41ms

View #66 - modules.loading-bar

1,111.80ms

+ 0.21ms

View #67 - 3rdparties.didomi

1,112.10ms

+ 0.31ms

View #68 - 3rdparties.gtm

1,112.25ms

+ 0.15ms

View #69 - 3rdparties.abtasty.main

1,112.39ms

+ 0.14ms

View #70 - 3rdparties.abtasty.tracking

1,112.53ms

+ 0.14ms

View #71 - 3rdparties.blueshift

1,112.77ms

+ 0.24ms

View #72 - 3rdparties.sizebay.main

1,113.17ms

+ 0.40ms

View #73 - 3rdparties.sizebay.tracking

1,113.37ms

+ 0.20ms

View #74 - 3rdparties.gsi

1,113.59ms

+ 0.22ms

View #75 - 3rdparties.applepay

1,113.71ms

+ 0.12ms

View #76 - 3rdparties.alma

1,113.94ms

+ 0.24ms

View #77 - path: /var/www/html/laravel/profiling/template.blade.php

1,115.11ms

+ 1.17ms

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