La chemise parfaite

Choisir son style Quelques règles de base Choisir les pièces clefs de son vestiaire Créer des palettes harmonieuses Dans la valise de Marc Beaugé Tout sur les tissus du vestiaire masculin

La chemise parfaite

Les différents fits de chemise permettent de jouer entre les styles, mais aussi de trouver la bonne pièce par rapport à sa morphologie.

Les trois fits principaux chez Fursac sont :

La chemise de ville ou de cérémonie : la base de corps y est cintrée avec une taille bien dessinée. Elle se porte rentrée dans le pantalon. Différents cols sont possibles : français, gorge cachée, à plastron…

La chemise de ville casual : la base de corps y est légèrement relâchée avec un cintrage qui reste marqué. Elle se porte rentrée dans le pantalon ou à l’extérieur. Les matières proposées sont plus casual.

La chemise casual : la base de corps y est droite et la taille moins marquée. Elle est proposée en bas liquette ou bas droit avec fentes cotés. Elle se porte rentrée dans le pantalon ou à l’extérieur.

Les chemises de cérémonie

Les chemises business

Les chemises casual

Les cols

Col français

Col requin

Col grand-père

Col cassé

Col hirondelle

Col américain

Les gorges

Gorge simple
Patte à même avec boutonnières, boutons visibles

Gorge américaine
La plus casual, patte rapportée et surpiquée

Gorge cachée
Boutons invisibles

Les poignets

La chemise parfaite - Costume homme et vêtements Fursac

Le bas de manche : la couture anglaise

La couture anglaise ferme les flans et les manches d’une chemise sans surfilage apparent par rapport à un montage classique à double aiguilles.

Réalisée avec une machine aiguille simple, elle nécessite de réaliser la couture en 2 fois.
C’est une finition plus luxueuse qui nécessite un savoir-faire plus poussé.

Les matières et teintures

Le twill

Le twill est le nom anglais de l’armure de sergé. On le distingue visiblement grâce aux diagonales formées par le tissage.

Ces diagonales sont obtenues par le passage du fil de chaine en alternance au-dessous d’un fil de trame, puis au-dessus de deux fils de trame. Peu froissable, une chemise en twill est résistante et facile à repasser. Elle est aussi plus souple et souvent moins craquante qu’une popeline.

La popeline et le fil à fil

La popeline est une toile qui présente une côte fine et serrée, elle est absorbante, souple et légèrement soyeuse. Pour l’obtention de la popeline, les tisseurs utilisent un fil de chaîne plus fin qu’un fil de trame.

Le fil à fil est une forme de popeline qui se distingue par l’utilisation d’un fil de couleur différente pour la chaîne et pour la trame. Ce tissage est utilisé pour la fabrication d’étoffes unies. Il donne aux tissus cet effet chiné bien spécifique.

Teint en pièces

On dit d’un vêtement qu’il est « teint en pièce » lorsque la teinture intervient après le montage. Ainsi, on obtient un rendu couleur plus doux et plus « casual » notamment au niveau des coutures.

Cela permet de travailler des couleurs très vives en évitant toutefois l’aspect criard.

Les coupes

Chemise col américain (ou col polo)

Bien que les origines de la chemise col polo soient légèrement floues, les historiens s’accordent tout de même à la rattacher à une date….et à un sport. Remontons au XIXème siècle dans l’état du Manipur au Nord-Est de l’Inde, où sont stationnés les soldats de l’armée britannique. Pour se divertir pendant leurs pauses, ils jouent au polo. A l’époque, ils portent une épaisse chemise à manches longues en coton. Gênés par le col qui ne cesse de battre lorsqu’ils sont au galop, ils décident de l’attacher à la chemise par des boutons.

Cette chemise à col boutonné, rattachée à la pratique du polo depuis, est nommée par les anglo-saxons « polo-shirt ». Lors d’un voyage en Angleterre, John E. Brooks, petit-fils du fondateur de la marque américaine Brooks Brothers assiste à un match de polo. Il décide à son retour de s’inspirer du col boutonné des chemises des joueurs et de proposer ce type de col au grand public.

Si on associe donc la chemise à col boutonné comme purement issue du style américain, c’est à Brooks Brothers qu’on le doit, puisque c’est la première marque à avoir popularisé le produit auprès du grand public comme un vêtement de tous les jours.

Chemise Hawaïenne ou chemise aloha

La chemise hawaïenne, ou chemise Aloha, est une chemise à manches courtes et col évasé, originaire des îles Hawaï. Elle connait son heure de gloire après guerre puis dans les années 1980.

Bien qu’incertaines, les origines de la chemise hawaïenne remonteraient à la fin du XIXème siècle lorsque des migrants japonais arrivent à Hawaï pour servir de main d’œuvre dans les champs de canne à sucre apportant avec eux le tissu traditionnel tapa. Ces travailleurs, torses nu dans les champs, se voient imposer par les missionnaires chrétiens, le port d’une chemise en coton avec des boutons de nacre ou cocotier, une « palaka », à laquelle sont ajoutées des fleurs locales ainsi que des décorations habituellement présentes sur les kimonos.

Chemise Western

La chemise western est apparue au début du XIXème siècle, époque de la conquête de l’Ouest. Les avant-postes qui accueillaient les colons étaient alors cosmopolites, un mélange culturel propice à la création des premières western shirts, fruits d’un mixage culturel. Inspirées des chemises traditionnelles mexicaines portées par les vaqueros (en soie ou en coton très léger) et des chemises de combat portées par les soldats confédérés durant la guerre de sécession, les colons américains, futurs cowboys, adaptent vite ces chemises à leur mode de vie.

Pour répondre à un besoin de vêtements durables et confortables, les western shirts sont ainsi fabriquées dans un denim épais, le même que celui utilisé pour la fabrication des jeans. Elles s’adaptent également à l’équitation : les boutons classiques sont remplacés par des boutons à pression afin d’éviter qu’ils ne s’arrachent en cas de chute de cheval ; les empiècements des épaules permettent un meilleur maintien du vêtement, elles sont aussi plus longues afin qu’elles ne sortent pas du pantalon à cheval.

D’un vêtement d’apparat riche en décorations, la chemise western devient un véritable vêtement de travail, robuste, sobre et bon marché. Les premières western shirts restent toutefois brodées de motifs d’inspiration mexicaine et amérindienne. Les poches, les empiècements des épaules et les manches sont passe-poilés, le plus souvent avec un tissu d’une autre teinte apportant un contraste. Les boutonnières comptaient jusqu’à 6 boutons alignés.

Et pour être précis…

Les baleines : A l’origine, les baleines étaient des lamelles cornées provenant des fanons de baleines. Employées autrefois pour rigidifier certains vêtements notamment les corsets, on les retrouve aujourd’hui dans le col des chemises. Attention d’ailleurs à bien les retirer avant le lavage !

L’hirondelle : Un nom poétique pour cette petite pièce de tissu de forme triangulaire, aussi appelée mouche ou cavalier qui renforce l’assemblage de la couture de chaque côté des bas de chemises et apporte une touche de fantaisie à la finition.

La patte capucin : La patte capucin (ou patte de boutonnage) est située sur le bas de manche, près du poignet. Elle ajoute une touche élégante et fonctionnelle aux chemises. Surtout, elle permet de renforcer l’ouverture de la manche pour une finition de qualité.

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View #40 - components.menu-pushes	1,208.85ms	+ 13.72ms
View #41 - components.menu-pushes	1,213.81ms	+ 4.96ms
View #42 - components.menu-pushes	1,215.40ms	+ 1.59ms
View #43 - svg.logo	1,216.25ms	+ 0.85ms
View #44 - modules.messages	1,217.29ms	+ 1.03ms
View #45 - modules.breadcrumbs	1,217.72ms	+ 0.44ms
View #46 - modules.footer	1,218.00ms	+ 0.28ms
View #47 - components.reinsurance-support	1,218.41ms	+ 0.41ms
View #48 - components.field	1,229.56ms	+ 11.14ms
View #49 - components.csrf-field	1,229.95ms	+ 0.40ms
View #50 - components.button	1,230.17ms	+ 0.21ms
View #51 - components.footer-links	1,230.61ms	+ 0.44ms
View #52 - modules.panel	1,234.21ms	+ 3.61ms
View #53 - modules.popin	1,234.45ms	+ 0.24ms
View #54 - modules.blueshift-popin	1,234.64ms	+ 0.19ms
View #55 - modules.search-panel	1,235.66ms	+ 1.02ms
View #56 - catalog.search-form	1,236.00ms	+ 0.33ms
View #57 - components.field	1,236.44ms	+ 0.44ms
View #58 - modules.toaster	1,237.27ms	+ 0.83ms
View #59 - layout.overlay	1,237.63ms	+ 0.37ms
View #60 - modules.webstore-switcher	1,244.45ms	+ 6.81ms
View #61 - components.close-button	1,244.95ms	+ 0.50ms
View #62 - components.native-select	1,245.52ms	+ 0.56ms
View #63 - components.native-select	1,246.09ms	+ 0.58ms
View #64 - components.button	1,246.36ms	+ 0.27ms
View #65 - components.button	1,246.70ms	+ 0.34ms
View #66 - helpers.grid	1,247.02ms	+ 0.32ms
View #67 - modules.loading-bar	1,247.19ms	+ 0.17ms
View #68 - 3rdparties.didomi	1,247.52ms	+ 0.33ms
View #69 - 3rdparties.gtm	1,247.67ms	+ 0.15ms
View #70 - 3rdparties.abtasty.main	1,247.82ms	+ 0.15ms
View #71 - 3rdparties.abtasty.tracking	1,247.97ms	+ 0.15ms
View #72 - 3rdparties.blueshift	1,248.21ms	+ 0.24ms
View #73 - 3rdparties.sizebay.main	1,248.68ms	+ 0.47ms
View #74 - 3rdparties.sizebay.tracking	1,248.92ms	+ 0.24ms
View #75 - 3rdparties.gsi	1,249.15ms	+ 0.23ms
View #76 - 3rdparties.applepay	1,258.97ms	+ 9.81ms
View #77 - 3rdparties.alma	1,259.34ms	+ 0.37ms
View #78 - path: /var/www/html/laravel/profiling/template.blade.php	1,260.79ms	+ 1.45ms

Name

Running Time (ms)

Difference

default_timer

1,260.74ms (time from start to render)

Controller entry

0.00ms

+ 0.00ms

View #1 - editorial.article

59.87ms

+ 59.86ms

View #2 - editorial.partials.subnav

61.25ms

+ 1.38ms

View #3 - editorial.partials.block-text

62.80ms

+ 1.56ms

View #4 - editorial.partials.block-carousel

63.13ms

+ 0.33ms

View #5 - editorial.partials.block-text

64.83ms

+ 1.70ms

View #6 - editorial.partials.block-carousel

65.06ms

+ 0.22ms

View #7 - editorial.partials.block-text

65.98ms

+ 0.92ms

View #8 - editorial.partials.block-carousel

66.18ms

+ 0.20ms

View #9 - editorial.partials.block-text

66.75ms

+ 0.57ms

View #10 - editorial.partials.block-image

66.94ms

+ 0.19ms

View #11 - editorial.partials.block-text

67.36ms

+ 0.42ms

View #12 - editorial.partials.block-text

67.54ms

+ 0.17ms

View #13 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

67.74ms

+ 0.21ms

View #14 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

68.23ms

+ 0.48ms

View #15 - editorial.partials.block-text

68.63ms

+ 0.40ms

View #16 - editorial.partials.block-text

68.81ms

+ 0.18ms

View #17 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

69.01ms

+ 0.21ms

View #18 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

69.49ms

+ 0.48ms

View #19 - editorial.partials.block-text-image

69.95ms

+ 0.45ms

View #20 - editorial.partials.block-text

70.52ms

+ 0.57ms

View #21 - editorial.partials.related-content

85.31ms

+ 14.79ms

View #22 - components.button

86.27ms

+ 0.97ms

View #23 - components.button

87.10ms

+ 0.82ms

View #24 - components.button

87.80ms

+ 0.71ms

View #25 - components.button

88.63ms

+ 0.83ms

View #26 - components.button

89.38ms

+ 0.75ms

View #27 - components.button

90.05ms

+ 0.67ms

View #28 - components.button

90.87ms

+ 0.82ms

View #29 - components.button

91.62ms

+ 0.74ms

View #30 - layout.layout

91.91ms

+ 0.29ms

View #31 - layout.meta

93.27ms

+ 1.36ms

View #32 - modules.notification

97.12ms

+ 3.85ms

View #33 - modules.header

97.97ms

+ 0.85ms

View #34 - modules.menu

1,166.30ms

+ 1,068.32ms

View #35 - components.menu-first-level

1,167.01ms

+ 0.72ms

View #36 - components.menu-second-level

1,171.44ms

+ 4.43ms

View #37 - components.menu-pushes

1,180.70ms

+ 9.26ms

View #38 - components.menu-pushes

1,188.75ms

+ 8.05ms

View #39 - components.menu-pushes

1,195.13ms

+ 6.38ms

View #40 - components.menu-pushes

1,208.85ms

+ 13.72ms

View #41 - components.menu-pushes

1,213.81ms

+ 4.96ms

View #42 - components.menu-pushes

1,215.40ms

+ 1.59ms

View #43 - svg.logo

1,216.25ms

+ 0.85ms

View #44 - modules.messages

1,217.29ms

+ 1.03ms

View #45 - modules.breadcrumbs

1,217.72ms

+ 0.44ms

View #46 - modules.footer

1,218.00ms

+ 0.28ms

View #47 - components.reinsurance-support

1,218.41ms

+ 0.41ms

View #48 - components.field

1,229.56ms

+ 11.14ms

View #49 - components.csrf-field

1,229.95ms

+ 0.40ms

View #50 - components.button

1,230.17ms

+ 0.21ms

View #51 - components.footer-links

1,230.61ms

+ 0.44ms

View #52 - modules.panel

1,234.21ms

+ 3.61ms

View #53 - modules.popin

1,234.45ms

+ 0.24ms

View #54 - modules.blueshift-popin

1,234.64ms

+ 0.19ms

View #55 - modules.search-panel

1,235.66ms

+ 1.02ms

View #56 - catalog.search-form

1,236.00ms

+ 0.33ms

View #57 - components.field

1,236.44ms

+ 0.44ms

View #58 - modules.toaster

1,237.27ms

+ 0.83ms

View #59 - layout.overlay

1,237.63ms

+ 0.37ms

View #60 - modules.webstore-switcher

1,244.45ms

+ 6.81ms

View #61 - components.close-button

1,244.95ms

+ 0.50ms

View #62 - components.native-select

1,245.52ms

+ 0.56ms

View #63 - components.native-select

1,246.09ms

+ 0.58ms

View #64 - components.button

1,246.36ms

+ 0.27ms

View #65 - components.button

1,246.70ms

+ 0.34ms

View #66 - helpers.grid

1,247.02ms

+ 0.32ms

View #67 - modules.loading-bar

1,247.19ms

+ 0.17ms

View #68 - 3rdparties.didomi

1,247.52ms

+ 0.33ms

View #69 - 3rdparties.gtm

1,247.67ms

+ 0.15ms

View #70 - 3rdparties.abtasty.main

1,247.82ms

+ 0.15ms

View #71 - 3rdparties.abtasty.tracking

1,247.97ms

+ 0.15ms

View #72 - 3rdparties.blueshift

1,248.21ms

+ 0.24ms

View #73 - 3rdparties.sizebay.main

1,248.68ms

+ 0.47ms

View #74 - 3rdparties.sizebay.tracking

1,248.92ms

+ 0.24ms

View #75 - 3rdparties.gsi

1,249.15ms

+ 0.23ms

View #76 - 3rdparties.applepay

1,258.97ms

+ 9.81ms

View #77 - 3rdparties.alma

1,259.34ms

+ 0.37ms

View #78 - path: /var/www/html/laravel/profiling/template.blade.php

1,260.79ms

+ 1.45ms

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